TheUSFS Accessibility Guidelines put outslope (or cross slope) at 2-3% for a Class 5 trail, which has a max grade of 5%. For steeper trails, like a Class 2 hiking trail, the target grade is 5-18%, max 35%, outslope 5-20%! Going past 15% outslope trails start to feel off-camber, and look it too, as there is almost a 2 inch difference between Formore detail checkout our other articles "26 or 29 You Choose" and "An introduction to 650b". A comparison table of different MTB wheel sizes. Of interest in this table is the N/A under 29" for Gravity. This is quite simply because the 29er hasn't really been used in this area yet. Also the only "POOR" is under 27.5" for Availability - this Anotherthing about 27.5" being very close to 26", is that they are easy to get moving from a standstill. That's the biggest knock against 29" IMO, as well as tough in tight switchbacks As far as 29" gearing, I converted mine to "ghetto 2X10" by removing big ring and replacing with bash, and swapping stock middle ring with 30T.
Foractual mountain biking, I would 110% go for a 27.5. For cruising around town, a 26 is no problem at all. Saying this based on my experiences of flying or not flying over the bars with different wheel sizes while mountain biking, and with a lot of commuting experience as well. Honestly, I'd suggest a 29er.

On a 29er, the handlebars are wider than on a 26" or 27.5" to account for the larger wheels. If you're turning right, for instance, and your reach to the handlebars is already strained, you will struggle to get full extension of your left arm while remaining in the correct position over the rest of the bike. This puts you in a 'difficult-at

Soundslike 27.5’s are better for what you’re riding on now but if you want and plan on getting more techy and dh trails then 29 is the way to go. I’m a shorter rider and 29’s def fee more stable too. If you just want to run faster and breath.. 29er. If you want more enjoyable ride and chill. Get the monster 27.5. uMISF.
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    • 26 vs 27.5 vs 29